San Cristóbal Island — Where Darwin First Landed

On September 17, 1835, Charles Darwin, who was then a young naturalist, first set foot on a black lava shore. The crew of the HMS Beagle called it Chatham Island. Today, it is known as San Cristóbal, the easternmost of the Galápagos Islands, and the one that changed the course of science more than any other.

Darwin spent four days exploring the island, noting a landscape that seemed to belong to a different world entirely. He observed the cracked lava fields, sparse vegetation, and creatures that didn’t fear humans. Mockingbirds seemed to differ by island. Tortoises from different islands carried distinct shell morphologies. Neither of these observations immediately made sense to him then. It was only years later, as he worked through his notebooks, that the pattern solidified into what would become the theory of evolution by natural selection.

Visitors to San Cristóbal today can follow Darwin’s footsteps. The Centro de Interpretación (Interpretation Center), at the edge of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, s open daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM and has a permanent exhibit that traces the geological formation of the archipelago, Darwin’s voyage, the history of failed colonization attempts, and the modern conservation movement that led to one of the world’s most successful protected ecosystems.

Visiting the Interpretation Center is free and is a recommended first stop for travelers. Cerro Tijeretas (Frigatebird Hill) is a short walk away along the coast. There, visitors can look over the bay and, on a clear morning, pick out Kicker Rock’s silhouette rising from the sea, just as Charles Darwin would have seen it.

From high up on San Cristóbal’s north coast, travelers can see two columns of volcanic tuff jutting out of the ocean surface. They lean slightly toward each other, separated by a narrow channel. From the west, they appear as a boot sole propped at an angle, hence the English name “Kicker Rock”. Viewed from the east, the formation is a Sleeping Lion, or “León Dormido” in Spanish.

The channel between the two rocks is where the fun happens. Boats anchor at the outer edge, so snorkellers enter the channel where they can swim in the shallow near the walls or in the open water at the center. The current moves steadily, creating the perfect conditions for drift snorkeling, where they enter at one end, float through the channel, and exit on the other side. Standard day tours depart from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno at around 08:00–08:30 and return by mid-afternoon.

A wide array of marine wildlife awaits. Galápagos sharks and white-tip reef sharks hover over the seabed. Hammerhead sharks (usually scalloped hammerheads) are commonly seen. Green sea turtles float alongside snorkelers. Spotted eagle rays glide through in formation. Finally, large pelagic fish move in and out with the current. Sea lions from a nearby colony also often join in.

Two-tank scuba dives are available. While snorkeling offers excellent wildlife viewing without prior dive experience, divers descending into the channel can encounter hammerhead sharks up close, making it one of the Pacific’s best shark experiences. The boat ride from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno takes approximately 45 minutes to one hour.

Day tours from San Cristóbal usually combine Kicker Rock with a stop at Cerro Brujo or Manglecito, allowing guests to rest, swim, and look for shorebirds. Most tours last 7-8 hours.